How to Solder properly || Through-hole (THT) & Surface-mount (SMD)

How to Solder properly || Through-hole (THT) & Surface-mount (SMD)

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if you ever watched one of my project videos and thought to yourself this guy has no clue what he’s doing I have to prove him wrong then you had no choice but to gather the required components and connect them to one another on a piece of proof porch according to my schematic the process which we use to reliably connect components jumper wires and practically everything else in the circuits is called soldering and no matter whether you create an old-school circuits with through-hole components or solder itsy-bitsy surface mount components to a PCB there exists useful guidelines which make soldering a breeze so in this video I will present you my technique for both tht and SMD soldering tasks which up until now were never failed me let’s get started first off let’s have a look at tht soldering aka a through-hole technology around 99% of my credit circuits use this technology since it is very simple and accessible the thinks we need for it are the following a piece of perf board with copper lines or dots I personally prefer dots though since you can create more complex layouts on a smaller area the THD components according to the schematic of the circuits which you can always recognize by the long leads which according to the name of this technology push through the holes of the probe boards and are soldered in place on the other sides and last but not least a soldering iron or even better a soldering station with a screwdriver tip or a conical tip as well as obviously a bit of solder I recommend using solder wool of flux core sinces removers the oxide coating of the metals and thus creates a strong bond and a shiny surface while flux free solder is certainly a bit harder to work with since we got everything ready for soldering can turn on the soldering station heat up the iron to 350 degrees Celsius and positioning the heart of the circuits dat tiny 85 in the middle of the purports the package the IC uses is called tip aids which stands for dual inline package and the eight represents the number of pins this dip package is pretty popular with tht and only distinguishes itself but through the numbers of pins used but the soldering technique always stays the same first off we have to bend two pins on the copper sides so that the IC is stays in place then we bring our iron close to one pin heat it up as well as the copper pads for 1 seconds and it needs Leah bringing the solder from the sides so that the flows around the pin before we move the sodomy ayran after cooling down the solder joint should have a shiny surface which means we can continue by utilizing the same technique to solder the rest of the pins to the purport one thing that we miss there were is the fact that you usually do not directly solder I cease to a purport it is actually recommended to use sockets so that you can replace the ICEA in case it blows up so to remove the ICEA from the perf boards I like to use so-called solder wick which is basically copper wire coated with flux to use it we simply lay it on top of a solder joint the play pressure with the hot soldering iron and wait until we see the facts come out which means that the solder wick sucked up the Sola this way we can easily remove the ICEA and replace it with the sockets which we solder in place the same way s di see now the rest of the components all follow the same soldering scheme which is push the leads through the holes paint them on the other sides quickly heat up one leads and the copper round its bring in the solder and let it rip low for a second before letting it all cool down and once enough components are in place we can use simple solder lines or jumper wires to connect them to one another then we can repeat the process by soldering in more components and then connecting them until the circuit is complete and if you think that this sounds rather simple then you are absolutely correct because it only takes a bit of practice and patience to master the arts of tht so now that our FUBU circuit is finally complete we can have a look at a boost converter which except for its potentiometer only consists of SMD components SMD is stands for surface mount device which means there are no leads which pass through the circuit board instead the components are directly soldered onto the surface of the PCB that means the process of placing the components on the PCB and soldering them can be completely handled by a machine another advantage of them is their very small size which is mandatory for circuits that need to fit in your pockets and if we have a look at the slide polled charge protect boost PCB that I created we can discover the last advantage these circuits consists of four different ICS which if we look at their data sheets only exists as an SMD package that means if you want to use the newest IC technology you should get familiar with SMD here or get out it’s as simple as that so let’s bring in the components for my circuits and let’s get started soldering I always like to start with the Schottky diodes and the inductor since their solder pads are located underneath them so that traditional soldering is pretty hard to do instead we can use so-called solder paste by firstly securing the PCB to the workplace we can squirt a tiny bit of the solder paste onto the solder pads push the components in place booboo tweezer and then grab our hot air station by selecting a temperature of 300 degrees Celsius and the medium wind speeds we can heat up the solder paste until it turns liquids and then into the usual solder which pretty much automatically sticks to the component and solder pads and locks it all in place no of course you could use the solar paste / hot air technique to solder all the components to the PCB and the results would even look better than with a normal soldering iron but I still do not favor this methods the reason is that you can more easily overheat the components in my case I destroyed my boost converter IC which I had to replace before the boards could function correctly so let’s use the soldering iron and stats hoo screwdriver tip I replaced with a very fine conical tip when it comes to SMD components with two terminals like resistors capacitors and LEDs we firstly tin once older pets move the component to the pet booba tweezer and reflow the soda so that the component gets secured then solder the other side in place and add a bit more solder to the side we started with afterwards we can repeat this process for all the other two pin components once again practice is everything and as you can see I do not have the steadiest hand but even like this it is no problem to solder SMD for further resistance you can even use a microscope like I do right here which makes soldering a lot easier but even without it I successfully sold out a complete boards which afterwards functioned without a problem next we cut the SMD ICS which I talked about earlier my technique is to tin one solder pads position the IC with tweezers while utilizing this pads to lock the IC in position and then simply sold out the rest of the pins in place just like we did with the through-hole IC of course the smaller u IC gets the more difficult it becomes to Sol door opens properly but once again the technique stays the same it only takes a bit of practice last but not least I sold out the microUSB port and the switch in position and our SMD circuit was complete but we have not faced one of the more popular SMD packages yet the Chi QFP aka thin quads flat package your Arduino Pro Mini or Arduino Nano for example consists of one of them to solder them you must firstly align them with a diagram on the PCB you then solder one pin in place and get the AC in position just like we discussed it earlier afterwards we can solder one pin on each side to the PCB at this point we should get ourselves a flux pen which we can utilize to flood all the pins of the IC in some additional flux then we add a ton of solder to all the pins so that they are basically all bridged on the corresponding sides and finally we can use solder wick to remove the excess solder and afterwards utilize the cotton pads with some isopropanol to get rid of all the excess solder material on the PCB and just like that you can easily solder an atmega further to a PMAC controller to your PCB without creating any shorts now the last SMD package we want to have a look at also comes in the form of an esp8266 IC which are removed from its breakout boards woofer there as you can see it has no leads only contact points on the bottom sides that is why this package is called qnf aka quad flats no leads but surprisingly soldering it to PCB is pretty much the same process as before but the G QFP the only difference is that you cannot easily see you bother your solder connections were successful or not in my case I did a pretty horrible job right here but anyway with that being said you are now ready to solder all kinds of through-hole and surface mount components and if you want to use the same tools / materials as me then you can check out the video description well listed all of them as always I hope you enjoyed watching this video if so don’t forget to Like share and subscribe stay creative we’ll see you next time

100 thoughts on “How to Solder properly || Through-hole (THT) & Surface-mount (SMD)

  • Cody Battery Post author

    SMD OR GET OUT!

  • Proto Propski Post author

    I just started soldering, so this was really helpful, now I just need to get use to being delicate, and I can repair that pesky WiFi Dongle USB port I broke two weeks ago, and have the skills to fix anything else I break in the coming years.. Or hopefully someone else breaks as a side job.

  • Grims Souls Post author

    I've managed to Oxidize all 4 of my solder tips. I bought a relatively cheap soldering station, but I had a problem which was burning the motherboard or not getting the tip hot enough to melt the solder.

  • Ozzly Osborne Post author

    For components such as resistors and inductors, I like to solder the pads then get tweezers and push them up next to it then have the iron melt the solder and the parts suck up into the pad quite nicely.

  • J.JONG Post author

    YOUUUUUUUUUU. Crank that solder boy…. nvm

  • High Voltages Post author

    I am electronic engineer and i am not good at soldering. 😄 i love programming instead 😄

  • Oliver Chu Post author

    thank you for adding Chinese subtitles

  • Ashton Snapp Post author

    The THT tutorial was more useful for me.

  • Captain Weird Post author

    A little helpfull tip, if you have multiple parts you want to solder at once, bending the wires to hold it to the board while you solder can get messy. Use blue tack on the other side of the board to hold them. That’s what I do and so far it’s never failed me, just make sure not to touch it directly with the iron 🙂

  • gfy Post author

    You can make a start by pronouncing soLdering properly It is not "sodriny"

  • Mnmbrane Post author

    Just a software guy passing through.

  • Emil Mihail Post author

    thank u !

  • Team Dank Memes Post author

    Your videos are so satisfying!!!😌

  • Gilles Bisson Post author

    For through hole, you should first solder the straight pins, then unbend the first two pins and finally solder them…

  • shwetank jain Post author

    What a great teacher u are

  • Diamond Post author

    Den letzten haste verkackt:)

  • PAWAN KUMAR Post author

    Help please

  • NA Sound Post author

    thank you

  • David Koon Post author

    Thank you for a great video, very helpful. Don't worry about the trolls:)

  • Stephen Simmons Post author

    What type and size wire do you use for your bridge wires?

  • B A S I L Post author

    SouljaPaste

  • Justin Moloney Post author

    QFN add solder and flux to all pads first, use hot air, pressure, and pray.

  • Bobitza aka NoobulPlictisit Post author

    I could never solder! I have 2 soldering irons and I CANT SOLDER!!! I don't know why!!!! I do what everyone does and I cant!!! I love electronics but I cant do anything without soldering!!! I am very sad…

  • PoxyBear Post author

    Paradise Arcade Shop recommended your video. Excellent work, new subscriber.

  • djmulder Post author

    I'm probably the worst soldering..euh..guy in the world .. thx for this I have new stuff to consider 🙂

    my biggest problem seems … basically getting the proper heat.. I now have a solder station with analog control.. and no heat indication.. so I'm just basically gambling what the heat must be.

    Then the solder, like I press the solder against the pen and it melts.. so I start soldering.. but then the solder just wants to be one with the pen.. it's like it bonded there.. it seems to look at the spot I want to solder and be like: nope.. not today..

    Then I throw the project out in frustration

  • Theodisker Post author

    Wenn das mein Meister gesehen hätte, dann hätte er dir die Ohren lang gezogen. 😀

  • Raul R3flex Post author

    What you work for living ?

  • M Chaves Post author

    hi Scott, would you make a video on short circuit trouble shooting with diode mode test and resistance to ground checks? it is very hard at least for me to figure out what is wrong on the circuits using multimiter.

  • Jonnyboy501 Post author

    Kleine Anmerkung an 8:25 U2

    Ich würde diese Art ICs mit Heißluft Löten da sie in der Mitte ein Kühlpad haben, das Vorzugsweise auch gelötet werden muss

  • Thunder Strike Post author

    Tht is not that easy. Any soldering & the efficiency depends on the radius soldering material. If it's too thick, it'll spread everywhere. Thinner the better

  • Tim Sharpe Post author

    Good tips. I used to have a Radio Shack a mile from home where I could fetch handy electronic components. I really miss that. Now it’s a slow boat from China.

  • gto 55 Post author

    This helped me a lot, thank you

  • nilton61 Post author

    Maybe you should study IPC documentation before spreading desinformation.
    Do not cut leads after soldering
    Bend leads with a jig before inserting

    It does not matter if your curcuit works right away. It has to work several or even decades and using the techiques you showcase they will certainly fail.

  • NEWKNOWLEDGE Post author

    THC Through Hole Components. LOL

  • e5frog Post author

    Pretty good, except for the large ball shaped solder tin blobs on the SMD resistors, perhaps it works but that much isn't needed. 😉

  • Gm Kelvin Post author

    有中文字幕XD

  • AKA mechatronics Post author

    Sir i can make solder lines but it is difficult when you have to solder in an L shape turns

  • Kamil Post author

    Try this kind of soldering tip with hole in it:
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b8oa1mJ8A5k
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5uiroWBkdFY

  • Vivek Patil Post author

    This is so satisfying
    👇

  • Neil Shrinath Post author

    Could you please tell me what type of pen are you using?

  • Praveen Kumar Post author

    Great Video, Thanks 🙏.

    Really Really Helpful !

  • migs TV Post author

    Nice tips

  • bhooshan vijay Post author

    before seeing your video I did not know that there were things like solder paste and flux pen

  • Hossein Ebrahimi Post author

    He does SMD like it's nothing i once tried to solder back a resistor, damn thing would stick to solder tip like a magnet.

  • Jon Post author

    I like the way you flip between pronouncing it ‘solder’ and ‘sodder’. That way you please the Australians AND the Americans.

  • çağrı yağmur Post author

    Great job thank you for your effort

  • Артур Тим Post author

    If you will make assembly small components with "Mechanic's" flux, your soldering will be better…

  • Kevin Liu Post author

    QNF? It’s QFN!

    10:14

  • AG_ from _83 Post author

    Here's the problem I have with soldering.

    The solder just goes straight to the iron tip and sticks there.

    Is this because its a cheap soldering iron and the wrong temperature? Or maybe cheap solder?

    I only ever do smd

  • Jacek Renkas Post author

    I recommend 0,2 or 0,25 mm solder for small SMD components 🙂

  • Adrian :P Post author

    What happens if he accidentally soldered two pins together?

  • Jason D. Valentine Post author

    @GreatScott! and fellow viewers; i have been in love with electronics since i have use of thought, but i had never had the oportunity to throw myself into studies before, next year i will have this oportunity, what studies should i apply for, if i want to learn this type of profession?

  • Makcim Enuka Post author

    Ebay links not work

  • Ruben Martins Post author

    I'm old school but I'm go to make they transition for surface mount, thanks for the tips 👍

  • Azad Sheikh Post author

    such a useful video thank you. how about esp32 SoC, my assembler is unable to solder 🙁

  • Jeremy S Post author

    That’s some dissapointing QFN soldering. I expected more

  • idan w Post author

    QNF is for hot air soldering.
    i see the majority of pepole on youtube use hot air for that.
    you just need to set it to a bit lower temp (280-290) and do it patiently

  • Gabriel Freitas Post author

    Pcbea mkay?

  • themoss Post author

    thank you very much

  • KY SH Post author

    A question: is solder bubble not good at all?

  • Schnitzelpaste deluxe Post author

    Hi. Welche Materialien nutzt du zum löten von SMDS? Also welchen Lötkolben usw?

  • NMranchhand Post author

    Great explanation!

  • MaximusPayne Post author

    Do you have any tricks for soldering pin headers? I hate it because they always fall off when you turn over the board, or if you are lucky they just get soldered crooked.

  • Erick Herrera Post author

    All I wanted to do is change my ps4 control joystick module, how the hell did I end up here……

  • Tzuyu international Post author

    I’m realized that you not using the oil

  • GLaDOS AI Post author

    Human where do you get the T.H.T prototyping board? I really need some…

  • Landy 20 Post author

    Most of the parts used with a pcp here are intended to be kept on the reel, fed into a machine, and placed by a robot onto the pcb. PCB would already have passed through a "printer" with a stencil and would have solder paste exactly where neccessary. Then sent through a low temp oven for perfect curing. Don't feel too bad about trying to solder these tiny parts and doing a mediocre job, it's intended for robot precision.

  • Optimus Prime Post author

    It's not easy for me. Gonna take time to learn good soldering.

  • da1otta Post author

    I also use Stannol solder. I'm very pleased with its quality. However, on perfboards, I prefer to make connections using the clipped of leads of components. It saves solder and I don't have to touch up the connection each time I heat it up to add/replace/remove a component along it.

  • Tobias Boon Post author

    Hello, is it easier to use tin 60/40 Soldering wire rather than alloy 60/40 Soldering wire for circuit boards?

  • R. Ive Post author

    ching chang.

  • Ajay Kumar Post author

    Great video

  • Oskar Bech-Trueman Post author

    What pcb design software do you use

  • Oil Burner Post author

    Thank god there is someone on YT that can say SoLder not "sodder" .
    When people say sodder it sounds like some perverse sexual act and shows their ignorance and laziness in their language.
    You have an accent but You get that word right which is a very pleasant change.

  • John Bartley Post author

    Great video!

  • GAGIK GASPARYAN Post author

    Dammmmit dude, you talk so damn MUCH!!! Annoying as fuck

  • Alpa black cloud Post author

    What about the polarity?

  • PARTH JOSHI Post author

    I would use a solderless breadboard for prototyping

  • egor102 Post author

    Whenever I see someone using smt I think about Doc brown and his 1955 equivelent circut to the ic that was blown in the Delorean…. His mind would have melted if he knew how small all those components go.

  • Tomas Maliauka Post author

    I think BGA package is the hardest to solder and reball if needed to resolder again. It would be nice to complete the soldering training by adding training on the BGA package.

  • Dark Knight Post author

    Wish I could read schematics!

  • VOVAN781000 Post author

    …Very bad

  • Houyhnhnm Post author

    Tell the good folks about bad soldering product. 90% of solder and flux is garbage from China. Here's how you will know:

    Every soldering iron including fixed temperature irons are hot enough to melt solder. If you can't melt fresh solder from the spool/coil then toss that solder into the trash immediately.

    Never overheat the tip just to melt solder, 300 degrees is more than enough. Too hot will destroy the stainless finish and it will begin to oxidize. An oxidized tip will not hold solder. Keep tips clean and always tin it.

    If you melt solder and it balls up and doesn't stick even with flux on a good tip, it is garbage solder. Toss it into the garbage. Never try to work with that crap.

    Many components out there use garbage solder. If you're trying to desolder and it won't melt, simply clean the area with alcohol, add flux, then melt fresh good solder on top of the old solder until it melts everything, then suction it away. Don't bother with braid, it will not absorb garbage solder.

    When in doubt, use leaded solder whenever possible.

    Give the folks some links to the best solder and flux.

  • 1024 Post author

    Well i mean the basis of science is proving people wrong I guess

  • Mr Mr Jims Post author

    Nice tutorial for replacing PS4 chip and hdmi

  • glitter for ever21 Post author

    Cabaret

  • FPV AztecJoe Post author

    Thank you for your help

  • LoneWolf 125 Post author

    What about using a breadboard for projects

  • u sk Post author

    How is called the rigid silvered wire that i've seen you use in through hole soldering?
    I've looked for it but I couldn't find anything.

  • Cseh Balázs Post author

    0:32 Azt mondja, hogy "Ici-Pici"? 😀

  • Johnny Quest Post author

    Soul Da Ring I Run.

  • code beat Post author

    I prefer to use the epoxy green with thinned pads perfboard, better quality, no corrosion, more solid, double sided and have via's. Also contrast is much better, copper pads on brown are most of the time difficult to see while there are no visual problems with the epoxy green with thinned pad version.

  • Minh Tran Post author

    Is SMD more expensive (component-wise)? The only advantage of THT is power dissipation and quick prototyping.

  • Appregator Post author

    QFN is viewed, once soldered underneath by a very thin Fibre optic, back to a camera. Especially in multiple rows of leads. But nevertheless we'll done on attempting that. 😅

  • Appregator Post author

    Nice left handed drawing of circuits. The art of engineering requires balanced left brain right brain thinking. Too much of one or none of the other and nothing is accomplished.

  • Gergő Dénes Post author

    Where you learned this hungarian phrase? I really like your vids, I have not to much time to build, but when I watch your vids, I feel that, I can make it 🙂

  • Janna Lorette Post author

    This is masterful

  • Jose Silva Post author

    You must learn how to use flux, you are soldering sad as dip. That’s is the wrong technical, try to put flux in abundance and came with solder already in iron, will be much beter

  • Jose Silva Post author

    Look for Android o videos, they show you how to do the right way

  • Jose Silva Post author

    Androkavo i mean

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